Skye’s the Limit

Elgol to the Cullins
Could this be the ultimate UK Cross Country Swim route?

LOOKING BACK TO ELGOL FROM LOCH SCAVAIG WITH THE ‘BAD STEP’ ON THE LEFT

This is what Above Below and adventures across land and water is all about.

The Black Cullins and the Cullin Ridge on the Isle of Skye are often described as the most beautiful and challenging mountain range in the UK, but the Cullin’s fame extends well beyond mountaineering. 

This incredible secluded setting takes your breath away and is known in wild swimming and sailing circles for it’s gorgeous hidden ‘Fairy Pools’ and Loch Scovaig, which provides the backdrop for Europe’s most beautiful anchorage (below). You could travel the world and you really won’t find anything better.

LOCH SCAVAIG ANCHORAGE (OUR BOAT OVER MY LEFT SHOULDER) AND THE CULLIN RIDGE

In bolder times, without children (we took the kids this time), we climbed up 'Sgurr Nan Gillean’ (the pointy one on the right) and ‘Sgurr Alisdair’ (big one on the left). We’re not climbers with ropes etc, so it’s all exhilarating scrambles on exposed ridges and tops. 

Since inventing the RuckRaft an epic trip has been building in our minds; perhaps the ultimate Cross Country swim in the UK. A hike from Elgol to the south, swimming into the back of the Cullins and on to Loch Scovaig from the famous ‘Bad Step’ - we’d then head over the Cullin ridge to Glenn Brittle and the ‘Fairy Pools’. We were not sure if it was possible, we’re still not - but we’re a bit closer after our 2020 recce.

ISLAND BOUND

Last month a friend suggested a week of sailing around the Western Isles and Skye. Obviously this wasn’t one to say no to. 

We got the Caledonian Sleeper from London to Fort William and then the famously picturesque Jacobite steam train to Mallaig where our boat was docked. On the boat we visited Knoydart, Britain’s most remote peninsula; RuckRafted into Loch Morar the UK’s deepest lake; anchored in Barrisdale in Loch Hourne which is said to be Scotland's most beautiful loch - you get drunk on the beauty of it all.

UNLOCKING DREAMS

For the final days of the week, in perfect conditions, a dream came true for us all - we anchored in Loch Scavaig at the back of the Cullins (Joannah the boat is on the left).

JOANNAH ACHORED IN LOCH SCAVAIG

We then put on our RuckRafts and swam into the back of the Cullins, heading out to Elgol via the ‘Bad Step’. The Bad Step is known as a treacherous part of the walk with an exposed clamber up a rock with a drop into the sea. To us it sounded like the perfect place to jump off and swim in, in truth it’s quite a manageable climb and we did it without any problem and with our kids in tow. So while not necessary to swim - the bay, the clear and crisp water and scenery do make you want to jump in anyway.

THE NOT SO ‘BAD STEP’

To and from Elgol is a perfectly do-able walk (6-7km) with the Camasunary Bothy and bay to stay in halfway. And there is so much beauty to interact with, clear, crisp water, dramatic mountains, stunning views. And then there’s the island in the middle of Loch Scavaig which is home to an incredible seal colony that you can swim out to.

The swims are in water that is lovely and clear but also quite chilly (probably need a wetsuit as we got cold after a 1km swim) and obviously the conditions need to be suitable.

Heading back there’s the 500m peak of Sgurr Na Stri, which presents a more manageable climb than up the back of the Cullin Ridge.

So, there we have it, the first half of our dream adventure - a simply amazing two days of adventure over land and water. The question now is whether we can finish what we started and find a safe way over that ridge to the Fairy Pools? Is it achievable for those of us who just scramble? Or do we need to rope up and do it all properly?

Either way, we’re heading back in 2021 - if you want to join us - drop us a line on hello@abovebelow.sc and we can see if we can put together a like minded bunch of pioneers to have a go at this one.

To get a sense of the landscape, this film by sublime mountain biker Danny MacAskill has him arriving into the back of the Cullins at Loch Scavaig and then biking the ridge.